Abbasid Caliphate · Iraq
Kitab al-Tabikh's Harissa
From Kitab al-Tabikh · Ibn Sayyar al-Warraq · 950
Verified from original source
A medieval Arab porridge of wheat and meat cooked to a smooth consistency.
History
Harissa from Kitab al-Tabikh (10th-century Baghdad) is a savoury porridge of wheat and meat, slow-cooked until the grains dissolve into a smooth paste. Unlike the North African chilli paste sharing its name, this medieval Iraqi harissa was comfort food enjoyed across social classes during the Abbasid Caliphate. Typically made with lamb or chicken, the dish required hours of stirring and was seasoned with cinnamon and coriander. It remains popular throughout the Middle East and Central Asia today, particularly during Ramadan and celebratory meals, retaining its original slow-cooked character.
Sources
- Ibn Sayyar al-Warraq, Kitab al-Tabikh (10th century), translated by Nawal Nasrallah as Annals of the Caliphs' Kitchens, 2007
- Nawal Nasrallah, Annals of the Caliphs' Kitchens: Ibn Sayyar al-Warraq's Tenth-Century Baghdadi Cookbook, 2007
- Charles Perry, 'Harisa', in The Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson, ed., 1999
- Claudia Roden, A Book of Middle Eastern Food, 1968
Serves
4-6
Prep
15m
Cook
120m
Difficulty
Medium
Ingredients
- · 300 g lamb shoulder, diced
- · 200 g coarse wheat (bulgur)
- · 1.5 l water
- · 60 g butter
- · 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
- · 1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom
- · Salt to taste
Method
- 1
Place lamb in a large pot with water and bring to a boil.
- 2
Reduce heat and simmer for 1 hour until meat is very tender.
- 3
Add wheat and continue cooking, stirring frequently, for 1 hour.
- 4
Beat mixture with a wooden spoon until smooth and porridge-like.
- 5
Stir in butter, cinnamon, cardamom and salt before serving.
