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Twice-cooked pork with glistening caramelised pork belly, spring onions and red chillies in a dark fermented bean sauce on a plate

Qing Dynasty · China

Twice-Cooked Pork (Yuan Mei style)

From Suiyuan Shidan 隨園食單 · Yuan Mei · 1792

Verified from original source

The classic Sichuan-style twice-cooked pork — belly poached then stir-fried with fermented bean paste. Yuan Mei's Qing-era version.

Historical note: Yuan Mei's cookbook is famous for its philosophy: 'A cook's greatest sin is doing too much.' This dish exemplifies it.

History

Twice-cooked pork (huí guō ròu 回鍋肉) appears in Yuan Mei's Suiyuan Shidan (1792), an influential Qing dynasty culinary work documenting refined Jiangnan cuisine. Yuan Mei, a scholar-poet and gourmand, recorded recipes from his household cook and travels. His version involves boiling pork belly until tender, then slicing and stir-frying with seasonings—a technique preserving moisture while achieving wok-seared flavour. Though Yuan's refined approach differed from rustic origins, twice-cooking became fundamental to Chinese culinary technique. The dish evolved regionally; Sichuan's spicy version with doubanjiang and leeks became most famous internationally. Yuan's text influenced Chinese gastronomic literature and remains studied for understanding 18th-century elite food culture.

Sources

  • Yuan Mei, Suiyuan Shidan (隨園食單), 1792
  • H.T. Huang, Science and Civilisation in China, Volume 6: Biology and Biological Technology, Part 5: Fermentations and Food Science, 2000
  • E.N. Anderson, The Food of China, 1988
  • Hsiang Ju Lin and Tsuifeng Lin, translators, Chinese Gastronomy by Hsiang Ju Lin and Tsuifeng Lin, 1969
  • Sean J.S. Chen, translator, Recipes from the Garden of Contentment: Yuan Mei's Manual of Gastronomy, 2018

Serves

4

Prep

15m

Cook

45m

Difficulty

Medium

Ingredients

  • · 500g pork belly, whole
  • · 3 tbsp doubanjiang (fermented broad bean paste)
  • · 1 tbsp sweet bean sauce
  • · 3 spring onions, cut in batons
  • · 2 fresh red chillies, sliced
  • · 1 tbsp Shaoxing wine
  • · 2 tsp sugar
  • · 3 slices ginger
  • · 2 tbsp oil

Method

  1. 1

    Simmer pork belly whole in water with ginger for 25 minutes. Cool.

  2. 2

    Slice cold pork very thinly — 3mm slabs.

  3. 3

    Heat oil in wok on high. Add pork slices, fry until edges curl.

  4. 4

    Push pork to one side. Add doubanjiang and sweet bean sauce; sizzle 30 seconds.

  5. 5

    Toss everything with sugar, wine, spring onions and chillies.

  6. 6

    Serve over rice.

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